Indian Clothing by State

Punjab — land of five rivers — is one of the most culturally vibrant and internationally recognized states in India. Its food, music (Bhangra, Giddha), and fashion have traveled far beyond the subcontinent, and Punjabi clothing is among the most recognizable Indian dress worldwide. The traditional dress for Punjabi women is the Salwar Kameez (also called Punjabi Suit): a long or short kameez (tunic) worn with salwar (pants) and a dupatta or chunni. The kameez of Punjab is traditionally wide and falls to the knee, cut straight. What elevates the Punjabi suit to an art form is Phulkari embroidery — a floss silk thread-work technique where flowers (phool) cover almost every inch of the fabric in geometric patterns. A Phulkari dupatta is considered a prized possession, often passed between generations. The most famous bottom style is the Patiala Salwar — a wide, heavily pleated trouser originating in the royal court of Patiala. Though initially worn by men, the Patiala became the most iconic women's salwar. Jutti (Punjabi shoes) with embroidery in real gold or silver threads and Parandi (hair braiding accessories bedecked with jewelry) complete the ensemble. Nisha also tried the traditional Punjabi men's dress: a simple kurta with the Tehmat/Tamba — the Punjabi dhoti worn by men at celebrations and religious occasions.

Rajasthan — the Land of Kings — is India's most visually dramatic state: a place of magnificent forts, mirror-bright palaces, painted havelis, and a color palette that defies the desert landscape. Its fashion is equally extraordinary — bold, layered, and laden with the history of its royal courts. Traditional Rajasthani women's attire consists of three pieces: the Ghagra (a full-length, heavily embroidered and pleated skirt), the Choli (fitted blouse), and the Odhni (a long dupatta used as a veil, approximately 2.5 meters long). The most celebrated textile techniques are Lahariya (diagonal stripe tie-and-dye), Bandhej/Bandhani (dot tie-and-dye), Chundri, and Gota-Patti work — the application of flat gold and silver ribbon trim that gives Rajasthani garments their distinctive regal shimmer. The Rajasthani jewelry system is one of the most elaborate in all of India. Necklaces include Jadau sets, Aad (chokers), and Raani Har (necklaces reaching the belly button). The complete traditional jewelry ensemble encompasses Kaanbali or Surliya (earrings), Nathani (nosepins), Bajubandh (armlets), Rakhdi/Borla (maang tikkas), Tagdi/Kardhani (waist chains), Payal (anklets), Bangadi (bangles), Bichuwa (toe rings), and finger rings — each piece with its own name, symbolism, and occasion.

Sikkim is a tiny Himalayan state bordering China, Bhutan, and Nepal — and its clothing reflects the extraordinary cultural meeting point of three distinct indigenous communities: the Lepchas, the Bhutias, and the Nepalis. Each community has its own traditional dress. Nisha wears the Pharia — the traditional dress of Nepali women in Sikkim. It consists of a wrapped cloth draping the body, worn with the Chaubandi Cholo — a long, loose blouse fastened on four sides (chau = four, bandi = fastened). For extra coverage, the upper body is wrapped with the Hembari, a printed cloth. The Majetro shawl and the Pachauri (a colorful cloth suspended from head to waist during dance) complete the Nepali ensemble. The Bhutia community wears the Kho — a large rectangular cloth wrapped around the body and fastened at the shoulder. The Lepcha women wear the Dumvum or Dum — a striped woven cloth worn as a wrap dress. Sikkimese jewelry is delicate and Himalayan in aesthetic: the Sir-Bandi (tiara), Kantha necklace, Naugeri (pearl necklace), Tilhari (green bead with gold pendant), and Charanihari complete the traditional Nepali bridal look.